The Untold Truth Of Pasta

There is no simple or fast way to delve into the history and cultural traditions related to pasta; it's easy to make, fast to prepare, and immensely comforting to eat. John Dickie, professor of Italian Studies at University College London, designates pasta as "a cultural phenomenon" (via BBC News). He adds, "People like the Italian way of life and their simple, staple foods." According to a 2011 Oxfam survey, pasta is one of the top-three foods worldwide (via Time Magazine).

Pasta became a global phenomenon beyond the Mediterranean in the 20th century when a wave of Italian immigrants moved to the U.S. and brought their cultural traditions with them. Italian American communities and their culinary ways have done much to bolster global perceptions of Italian food. 

Yet, these details are the tip of the iceberg in terms of the history and traditions associated with pasta. If you enjoy the unique warmth of a pasta dish, you should know that there's so much more to pasta than al fresco dining, warm Italian breezes, and silky pasta noodles soaked in slow-cooked bolognese meat sauce.

Pasta legend is alive and well, but as new archeological evidence surfaces, mythology is being left behind and replaced with true history, thus attracting pure fascination and curiosity (via The Atlantic). Until recently, a standardized myth suggested that Marco Polo was the first to introduce pasta to Italy. And while Marco Polo's name lends itself well to prompt credence, this legend is actually false.

According to Share The Pasta, Marco Polo returned to Italy in the late 13th century; however, archeological evidence of pasta in Italy dates to the 4th or 5th century (via PBS). So, while Marco Polo may have been enamored with Chinese noodles, he certainly did not introduce Italy to pasta. 

Food historian and author of "Dining With the Ancient Romans," Giorgio Franchetti, is quick to dismiss the Marco Polo pasta recount, exclaiming, "It's pure nonsense. The noodles that Marco Polo possibly brought back with him...were essentially made with rice and based on a different, oriental culinary tradition that has nothing to do with ours" (via Today Online). 

According to Farina Neighborhood Italian, there is evidence of a soldier from Genoa with a basket of "macaronis" in the 1270s, and 100 years before that, al-Idrisi, a Muslim geographer, made note of Sicilian pasta production.

Since the introduction of pasta to the U.S., demand has continued to increase. Eventually, pasta became so popular that commercial pasta production was the only way to satisfy demand, so, French immigrant Antoine Zerega opened the United States' first pasta factory in 1848 (via I Love Pasta). 

The first Zerega's pasta factory relied on a single horse to power pasta machinery. Dry pasta was laid out to dry in pasta strands in the sunlight on Brooklyn, New York's waterfront. And, while pasta conjecture certainly doesn't need any more controversy, according to The Atlantic, there is an alternative tale suggesting that an unknown Frenchman could have opened the first American pasta factory in 1798 in Philadelphia. Although, since the details of this account remain fuzzy, it is safe to assume that Zerega was most likely the first mainstream pasta factory in the U.S.

By the 1930s, Mr. Zerega passed on the family business to his two sons and two nephews, and three decades later, Zerega pasta was leading pasta production nationwide (via Zarega). At the start of 2020, the Philadelphia Macaroni Company acquired Zerega. Today, the operation continues to supply the finest pasta to food service businesses across the country.

Playful, tennis racket-shaped rachette pasta, tiny rice-like orzo, and famously saucy rigatoni dishes don't even begin to cover the world of pasta shapes. According to The Washington Post, there are over 300 types of pasta, while Eataly suggests that there are more than 400 pasta varieties. Either way, each kind of pasta serves a very specific purpose. 

According to cookbook author Katie Parla, there are two different pasta shape camps: The American "do whatever you want" approach, and the Italian way, which approaches pasta shapes with deep consideration for pairing the right shape with a suitable sauce. But pasta shapes aren't just designed to coat, trap, and cling; the shape of pasta is also based on its regional location of origin.

Regional produce is essential for fashioning delicious pasta plates and local grains often influence pasta dough production. For example, northern Italian pasta is usually made with soft wheat flour grown nearby, and eggs are generally added to supplement the flour's low protein content.

Gnocchi is native to northern Italy and the colder climate in this region is great for growing potatoes and unctuous butter dressings (via DeLallo). Central Italian pasta can be made with or without eggs. Meanwhile, southern Italy produces pasta made with high-protein local durum (semolina) flour. The chunky sauces of the southern region pair well with cavatelli and other nook-and-cranny pasta shapes that help trap and retain the sauce (via Paesana).

As Italian writer and food legend, Anna Del Conte writes in her book "Gastronomy of Italy," "The other source that sustains the variety, the appeal, and above all the quality of Italian cooking must surely be the intense concern the Italians have, from early childhood, with what they eat and how it should be cooked." Pasta is no exception. 

Every step of the cooking process, down to the last forkful, is a science; a ritualistic proceeding that allows for nuanced enjoyment while also adhering to ancient guidance. When cooking pasta, one must never add oil to the pasta water or overcook pasta into mush. 

Pasta can be messy and uncooperative, but according to a 1982 article from The New York Times, spoons should stay clear of all pasta plates. Restaurant owner Egi Maccioni shared, "My grandparents spent hours teaching me how to eat pasta without a spoon ... At home, if I couldn't master the technique, they'd punish me by taking all the food away."  

Tables ready for pasta may be set with spoons and forks, intended to toss the pasta together at the start of the course. After that, however, spoons should remain plate-side. To fully commit to the Italian way without unnecessary struggle, etiquette guru Myka Meier suggests resting the tines of the fork against the plate or bowl, picking up only a few strands, and twirling to grip and wrap spaghetti strands around the fork (via Hello Magazine).

Pasta-making is an artform in Italy: Female pasta pros have earned the title of "sfoglina," a term that refers to the women who specialize in making handmade pasta using a rolling pin (via The Washington Post). If you go straight to sun-kissed Italian islands or Tuscan villas when you visit Italy instead of a Bologna pitstop, you might be missing out on some of the best fresh and stuffed pasta in all of Italy (via Conde Nast Traveler).

According to National Geographic, Bologna is Italy's epicenter for all things tortelloni and meat ragu; additionally, it is an overall excellent place to start a culinary escapade. Stuffed pasta varieties, such as agnolotti, tortellini, and ravioli, should be made fresh to be enjoyed as precious pasta morsels. Northern Italy, including Bologna, runs on fresh pasta: Since the wheat stemming from the region tends to be lower in protein, the pasta made in northern Italy often requires the addition of eggs (via Eataly).

Tortellini consists of resh pasta squares and a smooth meat filling and it has been Bologna's most prized pasta since the 1500s. The filling is hand-stuffed with a mixture made of locally aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, regional minced mortadella, prosciutto, pork loin, eggs, and nutmeg. Amazingly, tortellini "sfoglinas" can produce 4,500 small tortellini every 24 minutes, which is more than enough to produce a satisfying bowl of pasta.

Cacio e pepe is currently one of the trendiest pasta dishes across the globe. Some critics knock the mainstream attention it receives, claiming the dish is nothing more than pasta, pecorino cheese, and cracked black pepper. Others, like Felicity Cloake, writer at The Guardian, stick up for the Roman pasta dish, calling it a plate that has "entered the collective psyche of foodies" everywhere.

If we've learned anything about pasta and cooking in general, it's that just because a dish is simple doesn't mean skilled finesse is disposable. And if you've ordered cacio e pepe at a restaurant or attempted to make it at home, you know how difficult it can be to get just right. Avoiding cheesy clumpiness is actually an impressive skill.

The cacio e pepe trend had diverged from pasta plates and ventured deep into the realm of eating possibilities. Stellina Pizzeria in Washington, D.C. has a considerable fanbase devoted to its cacio e pepe pizza, which has a tender charred crust with a ricotta cheese base, mozzarella cheese, Percorino Romano cheese, and lots of black pepper (via The Washington Post). Other cacio e pepe-inspired creations, such as crackers and eggs are all pretty incredible too, although the verdict is still out on cacio e pepe ice cream.

Although Trader Joe's cauliflower gnocchi is a trend in the U.S., it might garner perplexed, if not offended, glares from proud Italian sfoglinas. While Trader Joe's gnocchi is popular and quite delicious, true Italian gnocchi, although extremely regional and varied, is unlikely to contain steamed cauliflower. 

According to Saveur, gnocchi's true origins are a topic of ferocious Italian debate. There are several different kinds of gnocchi: Some of these may incorporate ingredients such as flour, potato, chestnut flour, spinach, and ricotta cheese, among others.

Potato gnocchi may have originated in the 16th or 17th century, after Spanish explorers brought potatoes to Italy after their travels in South America. Some believe the earliest gnocchi was created in the 1st century and was made with semolina flour and water or milk.

Gnocchi made with bread, milk, and ground almonds, known as "Zanzarelli," was invented in 15th-century Lombardy. Meanwhile, Bartolomeo Scappi featured a gnocchi recipe in his 1570 cookbook made with flour-based dough and breadcrumbs. However, it wasn't until the 19th century that potato gnocchi plates started resembling modern iterations, thanks to Italian food legend Pellegrino Artusi.