The Classic French Dessert So Good It Brought Julia Child To Tears

Eating is undoubtedly a multi-sensory experience. Food isn't just about taste, but also smell, touch, even sound, to a degree (the crunch of fried chicken, the sizzle of fajitas, the crack of a creme brulee). Sometimes, these elements are so profound, they can trigger intense emotions, including crying. Viewers saw this phenomenon play out during a 1997 episode of "Baking with Julia" when host Julia Child welcomed Nancy Silverton who at the time, was the owner and pastry chef at La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles. Fun fact: Child used almost 800 pounds of butter during the duration of this show! Silverton baked a creme fraiche custard brioche tart with fresh fruit poached in secret white wine sauce.

The two women discussed and worked through the involved recipe for the duration of the 30-minute episode, and when the dessert was finished, Child took the first bite. At first, she appeared to be speechless, then Child chuckled, calling the dish "a triumph." But perhaps the biggest compliment was that the culinary icon began to cry, and called it the best dessert she ever ate. It was truly a touching moment, and one that Silverton has never forgotten. When the event happened, Silverton at first thought the dessert was too hot and that Child had been burned, causing the tears, but was so pleased when she discovered that the dish probably triggered a fond memory for Julia that couldn't quite be put into words, so it came out in tears. 

Nancy Silverton's creme fraiche custard brioche dessert is a unique sweet that requires time and several steps, but judging from the reception it got from a legend like Julia Child, it's worth every minute of preparation. First, Silverton made a brioche bread dough, which she rolled out flat and rolled up the sides to create a thick crust, which was then placed inside a baking ring. Brioche is a smart bread to learn to make at home because it tends to be expensive in stores. Once rested, she poured a creme fraiche custard inside. Silverton made her own creme fraiche by combining heavy cream and buttermilk. She then brushed the crust with an egg white and sparkly decorating sugar, and placed the dessert in the oven to bake.

While the tart baked, Silverton poached various stone fruits in a caramel sauce she made with white wine, and made a zabaglione custard from egg yolks, sugar, a vanilla bean, and wine, which was then whipped until cold before getting a final enhancement with some whipped cream that was folded in. The chef served Child a slice of the tart with some of the fruit, the zabaglione, toasted almonds, and a shower of powdered sugar. "It's a dessert to cry over," Child proclaimed, while fighting back the tears that inevitably fell. Any baker comfortable in the kitchen should give this recipe a try, preferably for someone very special who will appreciate the results and the story behind the recipe.