The Old-School Prime Rib Institution That Left An Impression On Anthony Bourdain

Prime rib doesn't have to be the stuff of dated Vegas buffets or improperly-cooked home gatherings. If you're working from a proper prime rib recipe or know the right place to order it, this classic cut can be incredibly moist, tender, and full of delicious, beefy flavor. This writer can attest to having his whole prime rib world flipped on its head when the beauty of the cut really showed its shine on a visit to Bogies Steak House in Albia, Iowa. Oh man. When prime rib is good, it's absolutely amazing. Thick and juicy with a good amount of fat to keep it nice and tender. Anthony Bourdain had a similar experience at the House of Prime Rib in San Francisco. The beloved chef and travel documentarian visited the midcentury steakhouse on a 2009 episode of The Food Channel's "No Reservations."

"Behold the fantastically stuck-in-time temple of roast beef, House of Prime Rib," Bourdain said on the show. As the waitstaff brought a hooded metal cart — opening its cylindrical exterior like you would an old-school, roll-top desk where your important documents are kept — to cut the prime rib tableside. Bourdain commented, "From this giant Zeppelin, this Hindenburg of intercontinental ballistic meat delivery systems, emerges beef." And the beef was good, served in thick, fresh-cut slices with potatoes and creamed spinach on the side, and a puddle of savory jus.

There are definitely untold truths about Anthony Bourdain, concerning his personal relationships and struggles with mental health; but when it came to food, the man knew what he liked. Bourdain wasn't opposed to high-level elegance, but he was partial to classic dishes that proved themselves over time. His "Parts Unknown" visit to San Francisco's House of Prime Rib delivered on those sensibilities. "Oh, the humanity, a big bleeding, just right slab of prime rib," Bourdain professed in voiceover on the episode, before cutting into his slice.

"This is the American dream, right here," Bourdain theorized as he ate. "All the good, all the bad, all the beautiful, all the glories, and vulnerabilities ... Yeah, I mean, there's a metaphor here somewhere." Perhaps it was the intoxicating impression bestowed upon him by the perfect prime rib, or maybe he was slightly taken by the sound and flavor of the restaurant's robust martini service. 

The House of Prime Rib is still in business and has been since 1949. If you'd like to dine there but the large, hand-carved portion Bourdin enjoyed sounds like too much, you can go for a smaller serving that the restaurant calls the City Cut. There's even a children's prime rib dinner for guests under eight that comes with milk and ice cream. A daily rotating fish entrée is also available for those who aren't into beef. As for vegans and vegetarians, aka the diet followed by people Bourdain couldn't stand, the House of Prime Rib won't have much to offer.