This 60-Year-Old Virginia Diners, Drive-Ins And Dives Spot Is A True Vintage Deli Treasure

The delis and diners of the United States in the 1950s and '60s aimed to create cozy, warm, and welcoming spaces for their (very often) regular customers. Unfortunately, many now seem like quaint tourist destinations, rather than the beating heart of the local community. But some still persist, even after changing concepts and ownership. Perly's, a reimagined Jewish deli, is one such place, and it was named Virginia's top dog in the Mashed ranking of the best "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives" restaurants in each state.

Perly's was founded in Richmond, Virginia, in 1961, and still draws in locals and visitors from afar, all of whom gather for the homey atmosphere and delicious food. And the restaurant made a big impression on Guy Fieri during an episode of "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives." Fieri's standout favorite item on the menu was the potato and duck pierogies, which were also featured on our list of Triple D's best potato dishes. Fieri was impressed with owner and chef Kevin Roberts' eye for detail and commitment to quality — from the house-made duck confit to the hand-rolled pierogi dough to the multi-layered sauce. 

"I don't know if the word pierogi describes this. It's like calling my Camaro a car. That's a vintage hotrod," Fieri said on the episode of "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives" (via YouTube). "This is like I've been going to all the movies in black and white. And today I went to IMAX." Beyond the pierogies, Perly's menu features a number of old-school deli classics prepared with a modern, downright fine-dining twist.

Perly's, originally opened by husband and wife, Harry and Mary Perlstein, in 1961, served classic delicatessen food with a focus on their Jewish heritage, until it changed ownership in 1975. Afterward, it became known more as an American diner joint, serving standard breakfast and lunch, and was a huge local mainstay until it was set to close its doors in 2013. So, when chef Kevin Roberts and his wife Rachelle took over the restaurant in 2014 and decided to return it to its Jewish roots, locals approached with a bit of both trepidation and excitement. But the husband-and-wife duo preserved the soul of the restaurant and created an impressively classic deli menu featuring family recipes and the special touch of a skilled chef. "They restored an institution, and brought it back with their own funky style," said Fieri on the episode of "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives." The modern incarnation of Perly's brings a wonderfully vintage vibe and old-school deli feel with stainless steel, deeply cushioned stools lining the counter, patterned wallpaper, and Art Deco touches. 

Among the top menu offerings, Fieri also loved the Jewish egg rolls — crispy, fried rolled dough filled with corned beef and sauerkraut. The reuben, schnitzel, and patty melt are also popular, and with big portions, coming in at around $18, they're a steal for such upscale, scratch-made quality. And for brunch the hits just keep coming, like cinnamon babka French toast, kippered salmon frittata, and handmade cheese blintzes with blueberry sauce. The Roberts aimed to combine chef Kevin's culinary talent, Rachelle's Jewish family tradition, and the roots of a Richmond landmark all in one — and they've packaged it up beautifully, often between two pieces of rye.