The Palestinian dessert I Never Skip At This Brooklyn Restaurant

I live (and grew up in) Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, home to New York City's largest concentration of residents from the Arab diaspora, and, by extension, a vast selection of Middle Eastern food. So while I may be a pizza-loving Italian-American, I certainly know my way around some shawarma and baba ghanoush. Halal carts and holes-in-the-wall abound, but when my friends and I are looking to celebrate a special occasion — or simply indulge in a really good meal — we head straight to Tanoreen, where dessert is the real main event.

Tanoreen is a neighborhood eatery turned NYC institution that has been serving classic Palestinian cuisine in a lovely sit-down setting since 1998. The menu is stacked with savory favorites worth feasting on (kebabs! kafta! baked kibbeh!), but no matter how many courses I end up ordering, I always save room for Tanoreen's famous knafeh for dessert. 

Knafeh (or kunafa) is a sweet, crispy, and fantastically cheesy pastry. Not only is it one of the most unique desserts I've ever had, but it also lends itself well to a celebratory presentation. Even if you aren't adding candles to sing "Happy Birthday" (a common occurrence amongst my crew), the dramatic cheese pull alone is enough to warrant awe-struck "oohs" and "ahhs" before we even start putting fork to plate.

Various types of knafeh are enjoyed throughout North Africa and the Levant, particularly during religious holidays and family celebrations. A popular version of this gooey pastry — Knafeh Nabulseyeh — finds its origins in the Palestinian city of Nablus, where it's traditionally made with the locale's signature firm, brined cheese (usually from sheep's or goat's milk). Nabulsi cheese can be hard to find in the United States, however, so according to the Tanoreen staffers I spoke to on my most recent visit, the restaurant makes its knafeh using a blend of Akawi (a similar Palestinian cheese), mozzarella, and ricotta.

Knafeh's all-important cheese filling is spread between layers of shredded phyllo dough mixed with ghee to form a shell. Tanoreen's chef and owner, Rawia Bishara, adds a natural red dye to the phyllo to give it a vibrant color that commands attention as soon as it leaves the kitchen. The dish is baked until crispy, then flipped to display a gorgeous red-golden crust. Tanoreen's knafeh is topped with rosewater and orange blossom-infused syrup and a sprinkling of crunchy pistachios. 

The result is a sweet and floral symphony of texture and flavor. The cheese cools rather quickly, achieving a moist, chewy mouthfeel I'd compare to halloumi. Its dense texture serves as the perfect contrast to the light, crisp bits of baked dough and nuts, while its mild, slightly salty taste is enhanced by the flowery aromatics of rose and orange blossom. My tip? Enjoy knafeh alongside a thick, rich Arabic coffee for a quintessential Palestinian finish. NYC residents and visitors alike: Take this as your sign to hop on the R train and make a trip to Bay Ridge.