The Nostalgic Costco Bakery Item Shoppers Wish Would Make A Comeback
From boutique tea-infused batters to elaborate floral decorations, there's no shortage of ways to dress up a cake. But classic chocolate still holds its own: In a 2021 Mashed poll of 53,000 respondents, nearly half chose chocolate as their favorite cake flavor. Most self-respecting bakeries carry a decent chocolate cake, but for many Costco shoppers, nothing can quite replace the Kirkland Signature All American Chocolate Cake, which the membership chain discontinued in 2020.
The All American was a masterpiece of affordable decadence — featuring generous gobs of rich chocolate frosting between layers of chocolate sponge cake. More frosting coated the entire stack before it was covered with chocolate shavings, the favorite bit for many Costco lovers. "I got in trouble for eating all the chocolate shavings off the top as a kid," wrote one Reddit user, reminiscing about the bygone dessert.
Weighing in at 7 pounds for around $20, the All American became a fixture at birthday parties, family gatherings, and office shindigs. Many fans also fondly recall that it was frequently too much cake to finish, meaning a slice could come home for later. These memories made the cake's sudden disappearance from Costco shelves that much more disappointing. "I requested that ... for my birthday every year growing up," posted another fan on Reddit. "I haven't shopped in the Costco bakery for a long time and wanted it for my bday this year (in my 20s) and was sad to find out they don't make it anymore."
Where did the all-American chocolate cake go?
The loss of this chocolate treasure was perhaps made even more painful by the fact that it happened during an already dark time — early 2020, the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. Costco fans, many seeking longtime reliable comfort foods, did not take the loss of their favorite cake lying down. Not long after the All American disappeared, a Change.org petition asking Costco to return the beloved cake to shelves began to circulate. The petition received over 9,000 signatures, though Costco never formally responded to the plea.
Last year, we at Mashed did a bit of speculating as to the cake's untimely fate. Chief among our theories to explain the loss of the All American was the pandemic itself, which not only decimated the frequency of large, cake-buying celebrations, but also altered the very fabric of food culture. Between virtual birthday parties and canceled family traditions, there was simply less demand for a dessert to feed 20 people. Cooking and baking at home became a popular pandemic pastime, so rather than order a cake from the warehouse store, many people in lockdown tried their hand at baking cakes on their own. Though Costco has never confirmed that this was the reason it ditched the All American, the theory fits the timing, as well as the fact that the company discontinued other large cakes around the same time.
Attempts to fill the void left by the all-American chocolate cake
In 2021, a year after the All American vanished from Costco, a smaller version appeared — the "Mini All American Cakes With Fudge Frosting," sold in a six-pack for $10. Reddit users met the little cakes with enthusiasm, calling them similar to their predecessor. But others found that the miniature size disrupted the frosting-to-cake proportions that made the original so popular. "The ratio is wrong and the cupcake version lacks the rich density the cake had," wrote one Reddit user.
A few years later, Costco's chocolate contingent rejoiced over the launch of a new four-layer Chocolate Fudge Cake. Pastry Chef Stella Totino, shared on Simply Recipes that the new cake filled the gap left by the All American, her former favorite. "It's true to the cake I've known and loved for decades," she wrote. But others lament that it's missing the chocolate shavings. And while the cake is still generous and affordable ($24.99 for a 5.5-pound product), it's hard not to mourn the relative bargain of the All American. Other fans have taken matters into their own kitchens. In one Reddit thread devoted to recreating the All American, a home baker recommended pairing Preppy Kitchen's chocolate cake recipe with homemade cocoa frosting and chocolate flakes pressed around the sides. Others suggested adding hot fudge sauce to the frosting to get closer to Costco's signature richness. At least baking your own means the chocolate shavings are yours to bring back.