The Biggest Cases Of Food Fraud Ever

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration defines food fraud as, "the act of defrauding buyers of food or ingredients for economic gain." Also known by its more technical term of "economically motivated adulteration," food fraud is what happens when a person or persons along the farm-to-table pipeline engage in a wide variety of dubious practices meant to obfuscate if not outright lie to the buyer. The buyer being anything from the manufacturer, importer, retailer, government, to the individual consumer. According to the FDA website, food fraud has been found to negatively affect 1% of the global food market. That might not sound like much, but keep in mind that's still around $10 to $15 billion a year on average, going as high as $40 billion.

What's truly dangerous about food fraud, aside from its economic impact, is the threat to public health. Mislabeled packages, ingredient substitutions, and counterfeiting quality products all carry massive risks to public health. We need food to survive and we consume one kind of product or another at least several times a day. Food fraud disrupts that delicate process of grocery shopping all for the sake of a few extra zeros in profit. Even today, food fraud continues to be a rampant problem for both the consumer's health and economic stability.

In 1981, kangaroo and horse substituting for beef was being exported to the U.S. from Australia. The international scandal exposed massive malpractice in the Australian export market, and lax performance from the Australian government overseeing regulation.

Dubbed by members of the Australian parliament as, "Slaughtergate," U.S. officials found in a San Diego meat processing plant that packages labeled as beef exported from a Melbourne-based company actually contained meat from both horses and kangaroos. The scandal and investigation revealed rampant illegal practices within Australia's exporting industry as well as the larger Australian authorities not only being fully aware of what was happening, but also being apathetic in regards to enforcement.

While the manager of the Melbourne exporter was arrested, the real change came with sweeping improvements to Australia's export laws. The new legislation did away with the Bureau of Animal Health, and instead replaced it with a Royal Commission, and added an Export Inspection Service to the Department of Primary Industry. Within four years of the new legislation, all exporting malpractice significantly decreased.

Since 2020, the organic market has grown to over $61 billion yearly, which makes it very susceptible to food fraud. One of the largest scams took place in 2019, where over $120 million worth of ordinary grain was deceptively sold as organic. Randy Constant sold millions of dollars worth of grain he claimed came from his own organic fields. In truth, Constant purchased grain that was either grown somewhere else, sprayed with non-organic compliant chemicals, or was a mix of organic and non-organic grains. The majority of the fake organic grain sold went to feed for organic livestock farmers, which they then sold to consumers as organic meat.

There are rules and guidelines that must be followed for any food to be certified as organic. However, the New Yorker's piece on the scam and on Constant revealed that he took advantage of the organic market having no way of determining outright if a product was really organic. At his trial, Constant was found guilty and was ordered to return the majority of the money as well as sentenced to 10 years in prison. The presiding judge stated that Constant, "caused incalculable damage," with his long-running multi-million dollar organic con.

While not a multimillion-dollar scandal, it does go to show that food fraud can happen in places as small as a local restaurant. The restaurant in question was a popular Santa Monica high-class sushi eatery called "The Hump." A sting operation conducted by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and U.S. Customs confirmed a tip-off they received from informants. That the 12-year-old restaurant was in fact, serving whale meat as part of its menu. This was done by intentionally mislabeling the invoice as, "fatty tuna," as it was delivered to The Hump.

The informants who tipped off law enforcement were the documentary filmmakers of "The Cove," an Oscar-winning film about illegal dolphin hunting. They set up their own operation where they posed as customers with hidden cameras and purchased the whale meat, apparently at $2,000 a serving. They were able to take food samples for testing where it was confirmed to be whale meat. Specifically, it was meat belonging to the Sei whale, which is on the endangered species list.

While charges were brought against the sushi chef in charge at The Hump, as well as its parent company, due to outrage and protests, the restaurant voluntarily closed its doors.

In 2008, China experienced one of its most deadly and consequential acts of food fraud to date. The Sanlu Group, one of the larger dairy producers in the country, had adulterated powdered milk with melamine, an industrial compound used in the creation of plastic materials. The compound is toxic when ingested and is known to cause kidney stones. Sadly, the powdered milk was used as baby formula, which led to 300,000 infants in China becoming sick. Of those illnesses, six infants would die due to kidney damage. However, even as the Sanlu Group was being investigated, it was revealed that other domestic dairy farms were also engaging in similar practices.

Not only was it a public health nightmare, but it also greatly damaged China's overall reputation with food exports. Especially in regard to dairy products, as the majority of Chinese parents still refuse to give locally produced milk to their infants. In 2009, just one year after the scandal, China's market saw a massive surge in foreign dairy products, with over 100 different brands hitting grocery stores. To this day, the vast majority of China's dairy comes from foreign imports from the U.S. and the EU.

One of the most common methods of adulterating alcohol is by "cutting it," with methanol, a cheap, easily available, and highly toxic solvent used in antifreeze, pesticides, and even as an alternative fuel source. It should be noted that a small amount of methanol does occur naturally in the winemaking process. However, a high enough dose of methanol can cause blindness and even death. Such illegal methods have been done for decades, but one of the largest and most damaging methanol-related scandals devastated the reputation of Italian wine.

In 1986, 24 people in Italy died after drinking wine that contained lethal levels of methanol. An investigation by Italian authorities revealed that over 300 brands were adding large doses to cut their cheaper wine. The Italian government actually declared a state of emergency and moved to put a stop to the sale of wine, domestically and internationally. The scandal, as well as the prevention of further sales, caused a 39.2% drop in exports worldwide. While there were no reports of tainted wine reaching other countries, an Italian wine magazine called it, "the worst year in the Italian wine industry this century."

Along with massive health risks, food fraud takes an estimated $30 to $40 billion out of the global food marketplace every year. It's been so prevalent that a global operation was formed in 2011 between multiple law enforcement agencies, national food regulators, and private companies. Spearheaded by Interpol and Europol, "Operation: Opson," ("opson," being Greek for "food,) is a yearly task force co-op between participating countries to "remove counterfeit and substandard food," from the market and prosecute the offending groups involved.

Since its inception, Operation Opson has continually grown and now incorporates 72 countries in their global fight against food fraud. To date, some of those countries include the U.S, U.K, the majority of the EU, as well as countries in Africa, Asia, and the Pacific Islands. Between December 2020 and June 2021, Operation Opson X removed 15,000 tons of counterfeit or possibly dangerous food and drink worth $60 million, with 1,000 criminal cases opened across multiple countries.