The Untold History Of All-You-Can-Eat Buffets

People usually think of all-you-can-eat buffets as American institutions. The large portions and never-ending spread of foods speak to a supersized agenda that seems quintessentially American. However, Americans were not the first, nor were they the only group to indulge in an all-you-can-eat feast. While the first commercial all-you-can-eat buffet restaurant is thought to have originated in the Southwest United States, humanity has been feasting for thousands of years in one way or another.

The history of this way of dining spans millennia before finding its way to the modern iteration, from ancient Rome to 16th-century Sweden. Even the last 100 years have seen the rise, fall, and rise again of the all-you-can-eat buffet as tastes, diets, and economies have all changed, leading to fluctuation in their popularity. Most recently, the COVID-19 pandemic made its mark on the industry as people became more conscious of the spread of germs. The amount of touching and lack of health regulations enforced on buffets left their mark. But this is just one phase in the long history of the all-you-can-eat buffet.

The practice that inspired the modern-day all-you-can-eat buffet comes from 16th-century Sweden. At the time when feasts were popular to avoid underfeeding the guests, it became traditional to provide a brännvinsbord to pre-game the meal. The brännvinsbord was a display of appetizer-like foods, such as meats and cheeses, that guests could eat at their pleasure.

The name brännvinsbord literally means "table of spirits," and while we are sure the table kept people's spirits up, there was another kind of spirit that was an important part of the table, and that was Brännvin. Brännvin was a spiced vodka that accompanied the food and the brännvinsbord. Later additional alcohol, such as beer, would also be included.

There is some thought that the Swedes got the idea of pairing appetizers and spirits from the Russians, who enjoyed eating small snacks while sipping vodka. However, it was in Sweden that the idea took on a new life and place in society, setting it up to move from a precursor to the meal to becoming the meal itself.

Of course, western Europe did not want to be left out of the food festivities. While having food served to you had been all the rage in fine dining for hundreds of years, in England and France, the idea of displaying food that people would pick from as they desired began to take off. These displays were often used for breakfast in the 18th century. This style of eating allowed for communing with guests or family members, and for more privacy than a traditionally served meal, which we understand. Sometimes you just want some quiet in the morning. This could be seen as the start of the breakfast buffet, now a staple in mid-range hotels across America.

At this point, the foods were often served on a sideboard, a piece of furniture now used to house dishes and display food. The French word for this type of furniture is "buffet." As the style of eating gained traction in the English-speaking part of the world, the term was adopted to refer to the meal itself instead of simply referring to the furniture it was served on.

Then tough economic times hit. Between 1929 and 1939, America's economy hit a sustained low, now known as the Great Depression. During this time, many Americans struggled financially, often struggling with basic needs such as food. Even those who managed to retain wealth felt the struggle. This caused a shift in dining habits that favored buffet meals in the home. Buffets offered large quantities of food and did not require paid serving staff. Perfect for the economics of the day.

With buffets becoming more popular, the Chase Brass & Copper Company saw a potential business opportunity. The company designed an early electric buffet that kept the food hot and safe to eat — utilizing electric coils that heated a tray of water placed under pans of food, not dissimilar to what is still used today for warm food.

The electric buffet was released in 1933. While risky, the electric buffet was ultimately a success, finding a place in many people's homes. Emily Post, an etiquette writer of the day, wrote a short booklet titled "How to Give Buffet Suppers" to help promote the buffet server. Without this innovation due to the Depression, the groundwork for restaurants' all-you-can-eat buffets would not have been set.

The popularity of the all-you-can-eat continued to grow through the next several decades. No longer were buffets consigned to home parties or casinos. Independent buffets and chain restaurants began to spring up. Even restaurants that had à la carte menus also began to offer buffets. The enticement of all-you-can-eat options was just too much for the populace to resist, so more and more consumers opted for the buffet. This, of course, was great for restaurants, as buffets did not require the same level of wait staff as traditional dining. It also worked out for consumers, who saw a fixed-price all-you-can-eat buffet as a good economic choice.

The 1980s became a golden age for American all-you-can-eat buffets. Popular chains sprang up, such as Golden Corral, which was founded in 1973, and Cicis, which was founded in 1985. Restaurants such as Pizza Hut began offering buffets, and more and more hotels made it standard practice, especially for breakfasts. Buffets were the hot food option.

It was not just the oversaturation of the market that caused the decline of the all-you-can-eat buffet, but a change in how Americans eat. First came new diets focusing on low fat, low carbs, low sugar, or whatever the diet of the day was. As America moved into the 2000s, there was an increasing emphasis on diet culture, which is now widely recognized as unhealthy and harmful. These increasingly restrictive food trends did not bode well for the buffet market based on excess.

Then, of course, food trends shifted from quantity to quality, with consumers caring about the origins of their food. Farm-to-table restaurants and haute cuisine came to the forefront, leaving behind the food on a hot plate in a bar. It is also possible that the rise in food allergies encouraged people to stay away from the buffet. Food allergies in the United States have doubled since the heyday of the buffet. With concerns about cross-contamination and uncertain food sources, it is easy to see why the buffet is not always the first choice for someone with food allergies.

As restrictions on the COVID-19 pandemic lifted and people went back to a new normal, Americans were hit with economic difficulties. Left over from the pandemic came supply chain issues and inflation, which saw record increases in the price of food. Restaurant and grocery store prices kept creeping up, and Americans ate out less. In parallel to the Great Depression, we are now seeing the buffet profiting off this change in diet and economics. While full-service restaurants and fast-casual restaurants saw a decrease in patronage, the unlikely underdog of the all-you-can-eat buffet saw an increase.

Chains such as Golden Corral reported revenue increases between 2020 and 2023. This upturn is at least partially attributed to a return to Americans looking for value in the quantity of food. All-you-can-eat buffets have always been about quantity at a fixed price, making it a good option for those looking to eat out on a budget.

Of course, the landscape of the buffet has also changed in ways to attract the younger generation, too. More care is now often taken with plating to make food Instagrammable, and the many buffets are going further than ever to reduce costs related to food waste. All this has helped bring the once-floundering buffets into the 21st century, where they have once again become an American staple.