The Ohio Food Anthony Bourdain Called A 'Mutant Hybrid'

While he had a reputation for being a lovable grump, legendary chef Anthony Bourdain didn't hesitate to praise food he enjoyed. For instance, Bourdain dubbed a Chicago sandwich "a work of genius" for including three types of pork (bacon, ham, and pork tenderloin), plus a fried egg and plenty of gooey cheese. The chef also had some surprisingly positive sentiments for what he called "Ohio's state dish." On an episode of "No Reservations," Bourdain's hit Travel Channel show (via Facebook), the celebrity chef is seen ordering Cincinnati-style chili at a Skyline Chili location in Cleveland, Ohio, much to the chagrin of friend, fellow chef, and Ohio native Michael Ruhlman. 

While a defeated Ruhlman ultimately admits "I hate this," Bourdain offers a more flowery description of the meal. "Skyline Chili is not chili as you know it. It's not made for eating as a standalone dish," the TV host explains. "It's a mutant hybrid, a topping gone wild, a meaty brown bean-less sauce that tastes of cinnamon." For those unaware of this regional delicacy, Bourdain is describing the three-way, Skyline Chili's most popular variation, which consists of secret-recipe chili, spaghetti, and a literal mound of shredded cheddar cheese. 

The Cincinnati-style chili served at Skyline is divisive to be sure. For example, a Tripadvisor review declared the dish "disgusting" and likened it to prison food, stating, "I spent 2 years in prison and the cook ups made by inmates taste 10x's better." As for Anthony Bourdain, he gladly acknowledged Skyline Chili's "place in the pantheon of Ohio's culinary stars," and defended it as "authentic indigenous cuisine inspired by poor immigrants." While the origin story of the recipe is debated, the Skyline Chili restaurant was introduced to Cincinnati and the world at large by Nicholas Lambrinides, a Greek immigrant. 

According to the restaurant's about page, "In the kitchens of Greece, bold spices and rich flavors were a way of life...That same tradition inspired a one-of-a-kind chili recipe." Some even claim that Cincinnati-style chili originated from recipes like moussaka, a casserole-type dish hailing from Greece that uses similar ingredients to Skyline Chili's, including cloves and cinnamon in its meat sauce. There's also chili spaghetti, a popular dish in the Midwest that features ground beef, tomato sauce, and beans over spaghetti noodles. Murky origins aside, it's nice to know that a worldly celebrity chef like Bourdain didn't let any pretensions get in the way of his culinary enjoyment. And if you want to eat Cincinnati chili like a local, there will be absolutely no twirling of your spaghetti. Instead, you must cut the pasta into smaller pieces using a knife, or you risk becoming the laughingstock of Ohio.