Cooking A Better Brisket Starts The Night Before

When someone says something "doesn't happen overnight", it's a suggestion that the matter in question might be worthwhile, but won't come quickly. As it turns out, the secret to top-tier brisket does, quite literally, happen overnight. According to barbecue pros, the most tender, delectable, flavorful briskets are the result of salting and seasoning the meat the night before cooking, leaving plenty of time for these elements to work their magic.

This advance preparation is a key element of how to cook brisket, which can present a learning curve for inexperienced cooks. Among the proponents of night-before seasoning is Mica Talmor, former chef and owner of Pomella in Oakland, California. "Salting the meat overnight helps both with flavor and moisture," she told Mashed. This is achieved through reverse osmosis, the scientific process in which the salty dry-brine spice mixture first draws water out of the beef, where it mixes with seasonings on its surface before being reabsorbed. 

Once the salt reabsorbs, it carries flavor deeper into the meat to ensure the brisket stays juicier inside during cooking. It also removes moisture from the outermost layers to achieve the delicious crust, known as bark. On a chemical level, salt breaks down the brisket's tougher proteins and tissues. By giving this process a night to play out, barbecue chefs earn a bit of hands-free tenderizing — a crucial boost with sometimes-tough cuts like brisket.

Although salt is a critical element of any rub or dry brine, it's important to remember that different types of salt impart varying amounts of saltiness to food when measured by volume. For example, you'll need more kosher salt or flaked salt to provide the same flavoring and tenderizing impact of ordinary table salt. Remaining aware of this can help you avoid oversalting or underseasoning a brisket before you let it sit overnight. 

According to Mica Talmor, day-ahead salting isn't the only key step to take long before you fire up the smoker or oven. She also advises new brisket cooks to make sure they're buying a sufficient amount of meat for however many servings they need, conceding, "It shrinks a lot in the braise, so figuring out quantities is challenging." Talmor's rule of thumb is to buy approximately half a pound of uncooked brisket for each diner, particularly if you're hoping to have leftovers from all your hard work.

So, whether you're smoking brisket for a cookout or preparing the filling for a spicy braised brisket taco recipe, pre-salting and seasoning is an easy way to get better results. This tip requires some pre-planning the day before, but little else. After that, just sit back and let time and food science contribute to a finished brisket that is tender and full of flavor.