The World's Most Controversial Restaurants

The restaurant industry is fertile ground for scandals, and most long-running restaurants cannot fully avoid controversy. As food is central in this business, issues often relate to poor quality, unsustainable practices, questionable hygiene, and poor nutritional value. But more problematic controversies stem from political affiliations, discriminatory practices, harassment, cultural insensitivity, and underpaid staff that should be the driving force behind each restaurant. At a time when news and social media can easily make or break a business, any mishap faces rigorous scrutiny, and even minor incidents quickly escalate into major scandals. Ultimately, how the establishment reacts to these happenings will also significantly affect its reputation.

This list covers controversial restaurants that were publicly shamed for their practices but still somehow managed to survive, and those that could not stay afloat following painful humiliation. Not all scandals are equally severe, but they all attracted much negative attention, not only to the restaurant in question but sometimes to the industry as a whole. However, they can all be a good lesson for everyone in the business and perhaps ignite a broader discussion that will move the industry forward.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns is an acclaimed restaurant operated by the Barber family. It is set in an idyllic location 30 miles outside NYC at a former dairy farm. The ingredients are locally sourced from the Hudson Valley, and there is no classic à la carte menu, just a tasting option featuring dishes that showcase the beauty of locally sourced produce. Blue Hill opened in 2004, and was generally well-received by critics and the public. The reviews praised the philosophy, sustainable practices, ingenuity, and perfectly executed dishes, often described as a benchmark for all fine-dining establishments in the U.S.

This idyll was disrupted by a shocking three-piece editorial published on Eater in 2022 that would ruin the perfect image of the restaurant and the head chef, Dan Barber. The accusations made were severe. Former apprentice John Schaible claimed he was molested by one of the managerial staff members and was devastated when he got no protection or backup from the management. Eater spoke with almost 20 former employees, and their general sentiment told a story of pure disappointment that a place promoted as a revolutionary culinary haven essentially functioned as a brigade with brutal hours and overwhelming pressure. Other allegations included unsustainable practices not in line with the restaurant's ideology, including animal products in vegan and vegetarian options, dangerous working conditions, and a sexist atmosphere. Though the accusations made a lot of noise, Blue Hill weathered through it, and in 2023, Michelin again confirmed its two-star status.

Heart Attack Grill is just as you imagine it to be — a restaurant serving excessive portions that could send you to the hospital. It was opened in 2005 by Jon Basso who decided to go with the hospital theme. Customers are referred to as patients, the food is described with medical jargon, and part of the offer includes a wheelchair service for those who successfully tackle the most caloric burger in the world.

Heart Attack Grill is a place that promotes unnecessary and disturbing gluttony. There is little talk about the quality of food here. The burgers are made well-done and each item on the menu is pushed to the extreme, so you'll find fries made in lard and calorie-packed Butterfat Milkshakes. The food is merely a gimmick to attract attention, which is not something that is normally approved in the industry.

Though the idea seems controversial, Heart Attack was often called out for female uniforms that are evocative of the naughty nurse narrative. However, the most scandalous headlines relate to the death of 575-pound Blair River, the restaurant's spokesperson, who died at age 29. In 2012, a customer had a heart attack while dining at the restaurant, and what's even more shocking is that the staff and the customers weren't aware of the severity of the situation and thought of it as a stunt. A series of other scandals and restaurant-related deaths and incidents followed, but nothing seemed to convince Basso to reconsider the strategy.

Kryjivka is a quirky, war-themed restaurant located in Lviv, Ukraine. Though it's one of the city's must-visit places, this is a secret establishment, so you need to do some research to find it. Though it is centrally located, you'll have to enter via a secret door, past a scary guard who'll give you a shot of vodka and ask you for the secret password. You'll walk into a large basement area packed with war-inspired paraphernalia.

Kryjivka is not problematic for its food — quite the opposite; most reviews praise the menu and reasonable prices. The controversy mainly concerns its nationalistic theme and grim history. The place was initially used as a bunker by the Ukrainian Insurgent Army, which was mainly fighting Soviet and German occupation during and in the aftermath of WWII. The main goal of the Army was to achieve a unified Ukrainian state. Though Ukrainians mostly justify and celebrate its legacy, the Army has been involved in brutal conflict with Poles in the Volhynia region. Historians estimate that around 60,000 Poles were killed during this time to keep the Ukrainians dominant and ensure that the region stayed within Ukraine's borders. The conflict has never been entirely resolved and remains a source of tension between the two nations, so it is not surprising that Kryjivka — a place that celebrates its patriotic nationalism — has been criticized.

Xiongsen Bear and Tiger Village is a highly controversial animal park in Guilin, China. It covers a vast area and claims that it encompasses several animal-related activities such as conducting research, breeding animals, and providing entertainment. It's home to numerous wild and endangered species, such as tigers, black bears, lions, leopards, snakes, and monkeys. The park has long caused controversy for animal shows performed on the premises. The reports often described the horrible mistreatment of tigers that are poked, provoked, and badly tortured in order to do tricks and keep the guests entertained. As if this is not enough, it also included a controversial restaurant accused of serving tiger meat.

In 2007, the Conference on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) issued a statement confirming that Xiongsen featured tiger meat on its menu. ITN network first warned about the practice and had DNA evidence to support the claims, and CITES later confirmed that an additional test in the U.S. corroborated the results. All the negative publicity that followed had a positive impact as the restaurant and accompanying shop selling questionable products ultimately closed.

Copenhagen's Noma does not need much introduction. This revolutionary establishment belongs to the classic culinary canon. It was awarded three Michelin Stars and set a record with five titles as the World's Best Restaurant. Apart from being the place for the perfectly orchestrated dining experience, it was also a hub for training young, creative talents. The founder, René Redzepi, is one of the pioneers who gave momentum to fine dining that focused on local, foraged ingredients and made it into what it is today. Despite all the brilliance, Noma could not avoid controversy and was mostly criticized for relying on unpaid interns, though Redzepi changed the practice in 2022. The biggest scandal was the shocking announcement that Noma would permanently close by the end of 2024.

The news was shocking as Redzepi claimed that keeping Noma alive is no longer sustainable. The system where the meal costs $500 cannot function successfully and pay the staff fairly. This is especially worrying as Noma was an example and a model for many fine dining establishments that popped up around the globe. The news hit like an avalanche, posing the question of the future of haute cuisine. How can other, less popular places survive if the most successful restaurant can no longer stick to sustainable practices? Redzepi's legacy should not be diminished, but the news is a warning for similar establishments to reevaluate their methods and reshape the fine dining model to make it more sustainable for everyone involved.

Nusret Gökçe, best known for the Instagram persona Salt Bae, became an internet sensation in 2017 following a viral video in which he dramatically sprinkled salt over a steak. The video turned him into a global star, which resulted in a chain of international restaurants. Gökçe promoted a narrative of an incredibly successful restauranteur and a cosmopolite, but the descriptions of his former employees told a different story which exposed a much darker side of his persona and questionable leadership methods.

Insider talked with nine people who worked for Gökçe, and they gave a more accurate portrayal of the chef who enjoys the glitzy lifestyle and likes to brag about it on social media. Most complaints revolved around Gökçe's management style, which they describe as aggressive, often accompanied by frivolous decision-making, which made the employment uncertain and could lead to instant terminations. Insider mentions the extensive list of past and current lawsuits and complaints that contain reports by female staff about sexist treatment that was not on par with male staff members and discrimination based on nationality. The reports also suggest that management maintained the image of lux and glamour but that it was just a fake façade. The list of objections goes on, and though many of Gökçe's establishments are still open, it is yet to be seen how this instant business success will match up with the relentless flow of complaints associated with its name.