Rick Steves' Tip For 'Free' Snacks While Traveling In North Italy
A Euro summer sounds expensive — but travel maven Rick Steves has tips for staying within your dining budget in a country like Italy. Eating out for all three meals can add up quickly, but one mistake travelers make here is underestimating how large lunch can be. After multiple courses and dessert for lunch, a full sit-down dinner later in the day doesn't seem possible. Think of this as a good opportunity to save money on dining out; in this situation, Steves suggests opting for an "apericena" instead of a full meal.
You may have already heard of apertivo, the time in the late afternoon or early evening before dinner for drinks and a light snack. In Italian, cena means dinner, so apericena is the clever combination of these two words. As Steves stated on his website blog, "An aperitivo might be pricey, but it typically comes with free snacks — a bowl of chips or nuts. And at some bars, it includes an impressive smorgasbord of little finger foods. If you're in need of only a small dinner, you can discreetly turn your cocktail into a light meal." This practice, he explains, is a trend that is becoming more common in northern Italy.
To be clear, the food isn't totally free. You first pay for drink, like a glass of wine or a cocktail like an aperol spritz. Know that the price of the drink will greatly vary depending on if you are in a more local or touristy spot; Steves also has a few tips on avoiding tourist traps in Europe.
What to expect from an apericena
In northern cities like Turin, Milan, and Venice, bars and restaurants may offer more of an apericena situation rather than a traditional aperitivo like in southern Italy. Nuts, olives, breadsticks, chips, and crackers are typical apertivo snacks, and while an apericena may include this, it is normally more robust. Every place offering an apericena will have a different spread, with some being finger foods and others more like full on meals. The drink you're paying for might fall within the 5-15€ range; cheaper drinks may come with more basic food, while the more expensive end will likely include higher quality and variety.
A common option is a charcuterie board, called tagliere, which features an assortment of salumi and cheeses. Milan, in particular, is known for its apericena buffets that may include pizza, focaccia, small veggie plates, sandwiches, and even some pasta dishes. Venice, on the other hand, is better known for its more tapas-like apericena, called cicchetti. Rather than serving yourself from a buffet, you'll get served a plate of that might feature focaccia or bruschetta with toppings.
So while you won't be able to order exactly what you want, an apericena is a good opportunity to try new dishes and local goods in northern Italy. And when the bill finally comes, Rick Steves recommends to overthink tipping.