The Best Italian Sub In Boston Isn't In The North End

There are a few things you pick up quickly when you move to Massachusetts. You learn how to say city names properly: Worcester is "Wista," Leominster is "Lemminsta," and Auburn is "Awbin." You learn to do your grocery shopping at Market Basket. And you learn to visit Boston's North End for Italian food. There's good reason for that last one. Boston is a city of great food, but the North End has an abundance of Italian restaurants, from old-school joints to modern favorites. The neighborhood has over 100 eateries, so its fame is well-deserved.

But don't go to the North End for an Italian sub (or "grinder," in local parlance). There, I said it. You can find exceptional Italian sandwiches there, but the best one in the city is actually a couple miles northeast in the significantly less-famous neighborhood of Orient Heights (part of East Boston, or Eastie). That's where you'll find Milano's Deli, a local landmark that's been turning out show-stopping grinders since 1967. After getting frustrated one day at the lines for simple sandwiches in the North End, I took the T out to Milano's on a whim and never looked back.

The roughly 15-minute ride from downtown Boston may as well put you in a different world. Orient Heights feels less like a bustling city neighborhood and more like a quaint New England seaside town, with small shops and restaurants lining the streets just blocks from the beach. You'd almost forget you're still in Boston if not for the drone of airplanes above: Milano's is just across a small inlet from Logan Airport.

As a naive first-timer, I ordered a sandwich and fries from Milano's Deli — specifically the Italian Grande and the Italian Fries — thinking that would be a normal lunch portion. Maybe I should've known from the fact that the sub contains no fewer than five types of meats (capicola, salami, mortadella, soppressata, and prosciutto) and two kinds of cheese (fresh mozzarella and provolone) that this would be no ordinary sandwich. What impressed me most about the tower of cured meats I received, though, was that each ingredient imparted a specific, unique flavor to the sandwich. The salami was a little tangy, and the prosciutto was deeply salty but not overwhelming. Creamy, fresh mozzarella brought everything together. Over-the-top? Yes. Overpowering? No — in fact, it was surprisingly harmonious. This is the must-try sandwich for any newcomer.

Similarly, consider trying the Italian fries, which are thick, steak-style potatoes tossed with garlic and Romano. Here, too, each ingredient adds a distinct layer of flavor, infusing the dish with sharp, salty goodness. Milano's also steers clear of a common misstep with seasoned fries: The potatoes themselves remain perfectly crunchy on the outside, even after they're covered with seasoning.

I love food, and I love to eat. I never miss a chance to have a great meal. But after eating most of the sandwich and about half the order of fries, I was so stuffed that I skipped dinner that night (believe me, that never happens). The quantity wasn't a gimmick, though. Instead, the sandwich really benefitted from every addition. Just arrive hungry, or be prepared to bring home leftovers.

Let's be clear about one thing: You come to Milano's for the amazing food, not the ambiance. The interior is pleasant and clean but rather barebones. Although there are a few tables inside, the main focus is takeout. If you don't live nearby, consider walking just under ½ a mile to the nearby Orient Heights Beach to sit and eat. The spot also features a park with a gazebo.

Before my first visit, I'd never heard of Milano's. That's how you know I'm not an Eastie native myself, because it's well-known (and well-loved) within its hometown. When a 2017 kitchen fire forced the deli's closure, Milano's rebuilt over about a year and reopened to much neighborhood gratitude. As an illustration of this popularity, Eastie Times reported in 2018 that on reopening day, the eatery ran out of sandwich rolls at 12:30 p.m., only to get more and run out again by mid afternoon. "You never really know who is going to show up," owner Vinny Caraglia told the outlet. "After being gone for 13 months we feared we had been forgotten about but last Tuesday proved that this community does not lie and loves to support local businesses."

Milano's does have its competition, though. Eastie has long been an Italian enclave within Boston, so it's only natural that other Italian delis also populate the neighborhood. Sammy Carlo's, Carmella's Italian Market, and Meridian Food Market also stand out as local Italian sandwich joints. Plus, while I know Massachusetts natives who swear by Market Basket's Italian grinders, this born-and-raised New Jerseyan just can't get behind that idea.